The Smoky Eye is one of the most dramatic, sexy, drama provoking makeup technique there is in Bridal Beauty. It takes a strong personality and a night time wedding to pull off the darkest, smokiest look – but, that doesn’t mean a late afternoon bride can’t have a subtle smoke for her special day too. This “how to” will show you the steps to take, the intensity to choose and the balance that will pull it all together for your day.
The premise of this technique is to produce a dark to light effect on the eye creating focus and attention right at the center of the eye. It is great for night time weddings when lighting is from artificial sources; this look is very harsh in natural lighting but with modification it can be used in the evening and late afternoon.
Three colors make up the Smoky Eye and they range from light to dark within the same color family. The technique calls for the darkest color to be near the lashes fading to the lightest color as you go to the brow. It is within the color choice you make that you can control the intensity of the look: choosing lighter colors produces a subtle smoke effect and a dark color palate creates drama. The time of your wedding will dictate the depth of color you choose:
- Late afternoon weddings: Pinkish brown, taupe, nude
- Evening weddings: Golden brown (or a medium cool brown), caramel, flesh
- Night weddings: Charcoal, taupe, gold
Keep this look balanced! When you are making one area of your face the focal point, you must minimize the rest. Keep cheeks light and soft in color and apply only to the side of the face on the bone keeping the apples flesh colored. Lips should be soft and almost colorless: nude is a good choice for evening, just gloss for late afternoon and evening you can add a smidge of color close to your natural lip color.
- Apply foundation and an eyeshadow primer
- Using your lightest color apply shadow to the brow bone
- Using your medium shade, apply to the base of lashes, the whole lid and up to the edge of the brow bone
- Sweep medium tone along lower lashes to the corner of the eye for definition
- Using the darkest shade, apply to the upper lash line and onto the lid keeping the darkest application at the lash line
- Sweep the darkest shade along the lower lash line: Evening go all the way around the eye, for the rest stop this color at the leading edge of the iris
- Blend, blend, blend – using a dry, clean brush to swirl over eye will help to do the final blend
Remember, add liner, lashes and mascara according to time – the earlier the event, the less you use.
One final note, time changes due to season. Evening in winter is at 3:30 and in summer it is at 7:00 here in New England- The sun determines the time label placed upon your wedding with regard to makeup.
Let me know if you try this yourself – upload a photo, I’d love to see it! Jacki Norrie